Summer 2014’s (yeah I’m a little behind…) big expensive project was redoing all the beds around the house. We purchased the home from an estate, and the father had been ill for quite sometime, so the yard had been minimally maintained for several years.
There was virtually no mulch left anywhere and the timbers were pretty rotted, other than the big bushes we could never manage to pull out we were starting from scratch.
It took us a weekend to just pull out all of the junk we hadn’t yet, then we did the timbers, landscape fabric and rock the following 3 day weekend.
Instead of landscape timbers we chose 4x4 ground pressure treated wood, which we stained with some reddish Thompsons Water Seal we already had. The stain helped reduce the icky pressure treated greeness. We’re hoping that by going pressure treated these will last a long time.
We went with the lava rock, based on cost and weight. Moving “light lava rock” was hard work, I can’t imagine us moving one of the heavier rocks. It’s also helps that it’s one of the cheapest since the front of our house is 70 feet long, we needed 1.5 tons of rock! It also goes well with the color of our brick.
We also decided to go with rock because we have very deep eves, so all along the house we just have dry dusty dirt.
Two years later our rock and timbers still look great, the weed block is doing a a pretty good job too considering we had a ton of annoying invasive vines.
I've been busy working on operation Making Room for Baby now that my first trimester fatique has worn off.
Since our master bedroom is off the kitchen the best nursery room is my dressing room so I've been working on reducing my clothes to fit into our current guest room. (Lots of designer goodies are now listed in my Tradesy closet)
After 2 weekends of sorting the odds weren't looking good... I started looking for ways to cheat...
A couple of Amazon searches later I found my answer! This beauty is a high rise bedframe with 16.5" of clearance underneath it! That's tall enough for your average big storage tote!
So for $110 added 58 cubic feet of storage to my guest room and all I had to do was ditch the box spring that squeaked anyway! Even better our medium size suitcase fit under it on it's side!
It's super strong and sturdy and was very easy to put together!
see my easy velcro bedskirt post) and stuck it to the metal frame. I'll need to add a border to the end of the bedskirt to make it a little longer. The velcro will be great to remove the bedskirt when doing big swap arounds of stuff.
If you're not willing to give up your boxspring they also make a slightly shorter one that still has more clearance than your average Hollywood style bedframe, but won't make your bed too high.
This is not a sponsored post I'm just super excited about this easy storage solution.
Announcing to our Parents
I found these oversize stiff thick felt balloon shapes for under $3 each at Walmart, since it's felt I knew it would embroider well... so I grabbed two of them
Then I added "Happy" and "Birthday" to them in a thick oversize font.
I floated them in the the hoop, attached with spray adhesive and watched them pretty closely.
Then for the streamers I used Aleene's Tacky Glue and oversize ric-rac.
The vanity in our master bathroom when we moved in was short, oak, and featured a floral frosted glass door. See my full first budget bathroom update here.
I knew I wanted to replace it with something taller but with 2 drawers still, since this bathroom is tiny I couldn’t upgrade from a 24” wide to a 28” wide vanity. I quickly learned the 24” wide options were slim and all the options were white laminate. We had white laminate cabinets in our townhouse and had issues with the thermoplast panels pulling off the backer, no thank you. So I measured the vanity in our guest suite, 24” wide, two drawers, and GASP actual wood!
First we removed the sink top, since it was marbled and covered in paint droplets, we replaced it.
Then I sanded the whole vanity down, including the laminate over plywood sides.
Two coats of Zissner Stain Blocker Oil Based Primer
3 coats of the Behr satin off white paint we used on our kitchen cabinets.
Then we raised the vanity up 5” to be counter height. To do this we added 6” wide boards, ripped down to 5” to the bottom of the vanity using corner brackets and straps, like so. We also Liquid Nailed everything as well. The key to doing it this way is to find a board the same width as the bottom of the vanity, in our case this was 1/2 inch.
Then cut a hole in the bottom of the vanity since our shut off valves in this bathroom sit on the floor.
For the vanity top I originally wanted to do marble to go with our ‘'marble floor” but the $300 price point vs. the $54 white top just wasn’t justifiable. It looks great!
Then we placed the vanity in the bathroom, installed our new Pfister Selia faucet in the vanity top, got the plumbing in place and quickly learned that the “Glacier Bay Newport Vanity Top” doesn’t have a overflow which caused our push and seal drain from Pfister not to work. One $20 overflow less drain later, our $54 sink top was saved.
With the plumbing figured out we focused on the trim.
We cut bead board to fit the new taller kick plate and side of the vanity. The vanity front extends past the side so the breadboard edge was not visible. For the seam with the wall we added left over cap molding from our wainscoting project.
On the other side we added pvc outside corner molding to fill the gap against the wall, we also used this for the corner of the kick plate. This worked out great since our corner wasn’t a perfect cut.
To finish the inside of the cabinet, I cut cardboard to fit around the supplies, then I taped it down with some blue tape, then covered the whole bottom with contact paper. In the event we need to turn the water off we’ll quickly tear it out and replace the contact paper. This worked out well since we made the access hole oversize to make it easier, with the ‘cover’ I can still use the entire cabinet.
To finish off the project we tacked our corner round back down and caulked everything with Alex Plus.
It was a lot of work to ‘save’ our ‘free’ vanity but I think it was worth it, especially since there weren’t any out of the box options I loved, and some of the issues we had were tied to our bathroom and couldn’t have been avoided.
Supplies & Cost
- Oil Based Primer & Paint – Used Left Overs
- Bead Board – Surprise delivery from my amazing MIL ($10 divided across two projects)
- New Top - Glacier Bay Newport Vanity Top + Side Splash– $72.97
- New Faucet - Pfister Selia faucet – $79
- Wood & Hardware for height extension – $22.52
- New Cabinet Hardware- $10.94
- Corner PVC Trim – $5.97
Are you reading Colette Pattern's new online sewing magazine Seamwork yet?
If not you are seriously missing out! The magazine is free, then you want the 2 included quick sew stylish patterns you can have them for just $6 for BOTH! As if it's not fabulous enough, they just added the Seamwork Radio podcast! You can learn and sew at the same time!
Ok on to the Oslo Cardigan.
My fellow sewist Mary Lou Who and I wanted to sew together so this "2-hour" pattern was the perfect project since we've both made clothes before.
Fit: I am currently the top end of the L size so that's what I cut, it worked well especially since this heavy waffle knit drags.
At the first trying on the shoulders were hanging really low. Luckily my 'too short' cowl caused me to add a small box pleat to the center neck. I also inserted elastic in the seam like at the shoulders to keep it from stretching out.
Get the carriage look for less without having to put holes in your garage door.
So they sell these magnets that are just vinyl silhouettes of garage door hardware, which go me thinking… of course.
Garage Door Decorative Hardware Kit
Small Bolt Cutters (Harbor Freight's worked fine)
Neodymium magnets (the extra strong kind, you can also find those at Harbor Freight)
Hammered Spray Paint
Then it time to cut off the back side of the screws using your bolt cutters. The head of the screw can bounce off very far, so please wear full safety goggles and cut into a box to trying catch the flying pieces.
Next glue the screw ‘muffin tops’ into the holes of the hardware using the E6000 glue, if you have too much glue, acetone works well for clean up. Working on wax paper was also helpful.
Pop them on to the door, and ta dah instant upgrade.
You might have to push them back into place every once in a while, but it’s easy. Make sure you ‘pull’ them off, if you slide them you’ll scratch your garage door.
Note: I put these up 7/13 I’m finally blogging these 3/15 and they still look fabulous, and I haven’t even had to readjust some of them!